Today was our last day at Hueco Tanks and for most of us, our 3rd day on! But there was still great energy and great sends! Jim and Nicole went on a guided tour of East Mountain. The rest of the gang started the morning out at Martini Roof with a new climber to join our crew, the infamous Javier Morales:
Javier on Short Order Cook, V6
- Aka Dirty Sanchez
- The suavest Chilean on the planet
- A recent grad school graduate from UT and current professor in Chile
With the goal of getting in a good warm up, some of us ran laps on the first sequence of Baby Martini, while some of us did one-armed pullups #Raanansabeast, and some of us just played tetris alone in a dark corner #Dannystoogoodtowarmup.
Raanan doing one-armed pull-ups
From there the group split up, full of sending energy, to finish up the projects from yesterday. Kilian, Sarah, and Javier went to the Terminator Boulder. Guest post from Sarah Groman to follow:
After doing some quick warm-up on Martini roof, Killian, Javier and I trekked over to Terminator Boulder, where Killian had some unfinished business with McBane. Staring down his problem and gathering his breath, he began his first burn of the day. Sadly though, endurance fell short; the only way he could have gone further would have been to have matched the final jug. Emotions running high, we moved the pads over to Javier’s project, Adjust your Attitude. Killian rested and let the lactic acid leave his muscles while Javier made progress on AYA. After much effort from Javier and support from Killian and myself, we returned to McBane, which this time didn’t stand a chance. Killian’s send was flawless, and this time emotions were running high in the opposite direction. In Killian’s words, he was “elated.” It’s always a treat to see that kind of passion for a problem. From there we moved on. With me having an irritated tendon, and with no desire to do any more damage to it, Killian did his best to get me on Ghetto Simulator, a v2 that had me looking for clipping points up the problem/route. After some time over there and a pleasant encounter with a pair of road-tripping Canadians, we made our way over to Short Order Cook for Javier to do some work. Back to my friend/fellow climber/blogger, Sarah Williams:
Kilian on McBane,V8
Javier and Kilian hugging after the send
Danny, Raanan, Li, and I went to Choir Boys. Li had some unfinished business there. He made some excellent attempts and wound up with several impressive cuts on his shoulder, but the problem remained unfinished.
After leaving behind some skin and blood we headed up to the top of the chains on North Mountain. Danny worked on linking Dark Age, V11. This problem is burly, or as some would say, craygnar (crazy gnarly). There was much cutting of feet, on compression moves on slopers! And after all of that you still have to finish out a crimpy V6 highball! While Danny was projecting, I worked on the end of his problem, the V6, See Spot Run. After several attempts I managed to stick the long move to the crux, out of sequence. But unfortunately I was just too exhausted from the previous two days to stick the crux in sequence and finish it out. Likewise, Danny made great progress of Dark Age but no cigar.
Danny on Dark Age, V11
Around the point of exhaustion the rest of our crew met back up with us. We decided to hike over to Babyface Boulders. Raanan and Li made impressive sends of Daily…. (well, if you’re a climber you know what it’s called). I travelled to Hueco with Raanan several years ago and witnessed how hard he worked on this V7. It was great to see him finally get this incredible send (especially because he actually sent it twice with small dabs, but had too much integrity to count it, so he sent it a THIRD time)!! #dabless #craygnar. Li has also worked on this problem in past years with no sends. He had planned to rest his bleeding fingers while Raanan worked it, but Raanan’s send was so inspiring that he got on and sent it in a matter of minutes!
Around the corner, Kilian, Danny, and Javier worked on a stiff V7, Baby Face. This problem is definitely built for people with the longer wingspan, which catered perfectly to Kilian. After concocting some crucial heel hook beta he got the send!
In the final hour, Javier was psyched to get back on Short Order Cook, V6, a problem that he had fallen on several times earlier in the day. Javier and I speed hiked across the mountain, while the others brought the car around. Javier tried a new hand positioning and sent the problem in no time! Raanan, on a high from his recent send, decided to boulder the crux of the problem in Chacos! After this, Raanan came to the realization that he is a total beast and decided it was time to send!
Javier on Short Order Cook, V6
This was a wonderful weekend of sendage! It was great to meet back up with some old friends and take a break from the stress of medical school to climb in Hueco. But, my fingers and my muscles are ready for a break, and it’s time to head back. Trips like this always get me psyched to start training again. Look for more updates in the coming weeks with a few more winter trips after finals!
PS We ate delicious burritos. A lot of burritos. And for Raaanan, a LLLOOOOTTTTT of burritos. #espanyolo